There are certain kinds of food that are gauged by their odor. The smellier it is, the better. Like fine French cheeses, the durian emits a strong smell that is far from being enticing. But underneath all that lies a flavor that is well-loved by its fans, mostly from Southeast Asia.

So what happens if that smelly appeal is removed from the durian? Apparently, the idea is found to be even more revolting than the putrid smell of the fruit itself. In Thailand, a  government scientist has claimed that he has successfully managed to removed the stink from the fruit, hence making it possible to attract a wider fanbase.

Songpol Somsri has concocted the Chantaburi line of durians, naming them by numbers, depending on the gradation of smell emitting from the fruit. Chantaburi No. 1, he says, would smell only mildly, like a banana. Chantaburi No. 3, meanwhile, would still smell as bad as the original, but only after three days from the picking, hence making odorless transport possible.

But many are skeptic, and many are unconvinced. See, in Southeast Asia, the durian is more than just a smelly fruit. It stands for something deeper in society, even being pointed to as a source of local culture. Ultimately, the smell of the durian is what defines the fruit. Hence, the creation of an odorless variety is just a step towards the degradation of the durian culture.

Economically, an odorless durian, while sure to be an instant novelty, especially to those who are repulsed by the smell, would be less beneficial. "If the durian doesn't have a strong smell the customer only pays one-third the price."

Bob Halliday, a Bangkok-based food writer, concurs. "To anyone who doesn't like durian, it smells like a bunch of dead cats. But as you get to appreciate durian, the smell is not offensive at all. It's attractive. It makes you drool like a mastiff."

Seemingly, as well, the odor provides flavor to the durian: "nutty, sweet, with hints of vanilla, and an occasional bitter bite." Says Suchart Vichitrananda, director of Thailand's Horticultural Research Center, where the odorless durians are bred, "I can't say it's better than the original durian, but it'll do."

The new variety of odorless durians will soon be getting its approval from Thailand's Ministry of Agriculture in the coming weeks. The official presentation of this variety to the public is yet to happen, though.